Middle East Travel Seminar: The Western Wall, Temple Mount, and Dome of the Rock
BY PAT & CYNTHIA BARROW
Thunder rumbles as we gather for an early breakfast. After grabbing our rain gear, we walk through bands of sunshine from our hotel in the Christian Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem toward the Western Wall. As part of the Second Temple Compound, the Western Wall is believed to be where the Divine Presence can always be experienced and is a sacred destination for prayer.
After going through a security station, we walked up the ramp toward the Temple Mount and the Dome of the Rock, a 7th century AD mosque. The hill is important to Muslims, Jews, and Christians. Muslims believe Muhammed was transported there in a dream and saw a vision of paradise. Jews and Christians believe the hill is Mt. Moriah where God told Abraham to sacrifice Isaac. The east side of the Temple Mount faces the Mount of Olives and also contains the Golden Gate which is sealed. Some believe Christ will return through the Golden Gate. Church bells were ringing as we walked around the dome and viewed the bedrock of Mt. Moriah.
Dome of the Rock
It was a very brief bus ride to Mount Zion to the traditional site of the Upper Room, and it is believed that the first Pentecost was celebrated there as well. The traditional site of King David’s Tomb is also on Mount Zion.
Dr. Mitri Raheb
We traveled to Bethlehem to meet with Dr. Mitri Raheb, president of Dar al-Kalima University College of Arts and Culture. Dr. Raheb Is a Palestinian Christian who is an outspoken advocate for his people in the ongoing Palestinian-Israeli conflict and founded a center for justice and peacemaking. He shared an overview of the history of the last 70 years, student success stories and relayed the current concerns. We had the opportunity for questions, answers and book signing, then had lunch at the center.
We walked to the Church of the Nativity, one of the most visited sites in the Holy Land and the number of people trying to enter confirmed that fact. After viewing the star in the grotto and manger we gathered on the grounds for a presentation on the Church of the Nativity by Union student George Williams.
Our planned activities for the day ended under a blue sky with dry umbrellas and a farewell ringing of church bells.
(Top photo courtesy of Joshua Lewis)
Pat and Cynthia Barrow are friends of Union Presbyterian Seminary from Wallace, North Carolina.
We began the day at Yad VaShem, “a place and a name,” the Holocaust memorial here in Jerusalem. The large complex includes an exhibition on the history and experience of the Jewish community in Europe and North Africa during the time of the Nazis, a hall of memory, remembrance gardens, and a children’s hall of remembrance. We explored the galleries and gardens at our own pace, which allowed each of us to pause and ponder, taking in the images, voices, artifacts and writings that bear witness to the work camps, mass executions, forced marches and gas chambers, inviting us to add our voices to the cry, “Never Again!”
Many shared that the most moving, indeed emotional moment came when walking through the Children’s Memorial (top photo): a path descends to a dark room lit by a light reflected in mirrors, creating a field of stars, above, behind, beneath, marking the grief that 25-percent of those who perished during the Holocaust were children. They are remembered forever.
We then moved on to the Israel Museum’s model of first century Jerusalem. In the lovely sunshine, we began piecing together paths we have walked with their first-century counterpart, identifying the places associated with the events of Holy Week and Easter. The model was definitely worth the visit, as it clarified the topography, geography, and history of the city.
We then entered the Shrine of the Book, a museum dedicated to the Dead Sea Scrolls. I’m not the only one who audibly gasped when I realized I was looking at one of the ceramic pots in which the scrolls were hidden. Fragments of scrolls told the rule of the Essene community. One person remarked on the connection between the Essene rule and later Christian monastic rules. Another was awestruck by the facsimile of the Great Isaiah Scroll laying before him. I marveled at the 10th century Aleppo Codex, the oldest compete bible in Hebrew, and thought of treasures lost that may yet be found.
A quick stroll around the quad of Hebrew University and a look inside the National Library on the campus brought the touring day to a close. Like any university library, the large reading room was filled with the hush of students and faculty pouring over books, taking notes, lost in wonder or struggling for meaning. The next generation of leadership in this fragile region learns together here: men and women, Jewish, Christian, Muslim, and none of the above. So it was perfect that when we returned to the hotel, Union student Kelly Connelly offered us a start on processing our experiences here with a thoughtful presentation on contemporary Palestinian and Israeli cinema, music, drama, and poetry.
Back in the Old City, we walked the narrow alleyways. Vendors invited us to come and look at their jewelry, art, scarves, toys, trinkets. Many of us headed down Souk Khan El Zeit (Olive Alley) to Ja’Far Sweets, for the most exquisite Baklava and Kanafeh. Memory, history, and hope in a mouthful. Salaam/Shalom/Peace rest upon you.
The Rev. Sue Lowcock Harris an alumna of Union and co-pastor of First Presbyterian Church of Howard County, Maryland.
Saturday began as we have become accustomed to, a large breakfast with one another and an exquisite view of the Sea of Galilee as we loaded our tour bus. The only thing that could have made things a little better would have been finding a Starbucks. Unfortunately, we had no such luck.
Our first visit of the day was to Zippori (Sepphoris). Zippori was a Roman-era, Jewish city, whose remains speak to us of Hellenistic Jews and their openness to incorporating diverse cultural perspectives into their own art and religious practice. This openness was immediately apparent while viewing the mosaic tile floor of the unearthed synagogue on the hilltop city. This Jewish synagogue was decorated with beautiful mosaic stories and figures familiar to most Christians. What was most striking, however, was the large zodiac symbol in the center of the room (top photo). The zodiac symbol was most certainly not Jewish, but it had found its place permanently etched into the history of this place of worship.
Following the synagogue, our group gathered for a morning of devotion and Scripture reading. It was here that we felt as if we had been transported back in time as we sat in the ancient Roman theater. Dr. Rick Spencer, Emeritus Professor of Religion from Appalachian State University, spoke to us from John 2 about the glory of God revealed in Jesus Christ while at the wedding in Cana. It has been amazing having Dr. Spencer on the trip with us all. He was one of our own, Dr. Carson Brisson’s, professors when HE attended seminary. Dr. Spencer is a treasure trove of information. His message to us was both stimulating intellectually and moving emotionally.
Dr. Rick Spencer
What made Zippori the most fascinating to me, was the realization that just four miles away sat a little village named Nazareth. Zippori is not mentioned in the biblical records, but this Galilean city was a hub of economic, religious, and cultural prosperity during the formative young years of Jesus’ life. Many assume that Jesus and his family would have traveled to Zippori for commerce or even work. While we may never know for certain, what we have come to find on this trip time after time, is that the Roman occupation loomed large in Palestine during Jesus’ life on earth and certainly influenced His ministry. It was within the shadows of cities like Zippori, that the Jesus movement was gaining traction until it’s explosion in the city of Jerusalem, also under Roman occupation.
Chariots left wheel marks in this Roman road in Zippori.
Later in the afternoon, following a few unexpected diversions, we were welcomed onto a rustic trail in a canyon called the Wind Valley. The Wind Valley provides a direct route from the Galilee to Nazareth. As I often do, I walk towards the back of our group wherever we visit so that I can take in every site one last time before moving ahead. As I walked I could hear the crumble of rocks underfoot and hear the chatter of talking from others ahead of me. I took in the wildflowers that sprouted up like welcoming guests and I watched a herd of goats fight one another for the same leafy branch. It was there, in the heat of the day, overshadowed by mountains on both sides of me, that I reflected again on the object of my worship, Jesus the Christ. He walked these lands. He saw these same mountains and felt the same dry heat that I have become antagonistic towards. In the raw, ruggedness of this rocky trail, I felt more connected to Christ than the museums and artifacts from former Roman era cities. In nature, walking on a trail that was not on our itinerary, scorched by the late afternoon sun, a sacred space developed and I sensed the presence of the man from Galilee.
Our walk on the trail is a microcosm of what our Christian faith should actually be, unexpected encounters with God in places and times least expected and among those that you didn’t anticipate joining you!
Joshua S. Lewis will be graduating with a Master of Divinity degree upon returning from the Middle East. He is currently applying to Ph.D. programs and plans to do research in his tradition of Pentecostalism. He is a blessed father of four beautiful children and currently serves as interim pastor to Indian View Baptist Church, a Native American church located in King William, Virginia.
In the morning, we departed from our hotel in Tiberius and set out for Jerusalem. During the extended bus ride, I gave a presentation on Herod the Great and student Joshua Lewis spoke about Caesarea Maritima.
When we arrived at the Bethlehem checkpoint, a small white car with a yellow Palestinian license plate was stopped in front of us. They were being questioned by a female Israeli soldier who looked 20-something and was flippantly smoking a cigarette with her assault rifle slung over her neck. While she checked credentials, two armed male soldiers sat along the roadside fence. A second female soldier emerged with her arms full of soft drinks and snacks, which she handed to her friends. One of them greeted her with the type of playful exaggerated hug you would expect to see in a teen high school drama and then she stood facing the cars and munching chips with her rife hanging towards the ground. The soldiers’ demeanor seemed noticeably discrepant from the tension associated with a security checkpoint but maybe it was just a daily formality for them. After the white car was cleared, our bus passed with a wave and we proceeded to a section of the security wall in Bethlehem (top photo).
The wall was covered with graffiti expressing the frustrations and hopes of the Palestinians living under its shadow. In addition to the criticism of world leaders, some of the graffiti contained positive messages like “free Palestine with love” or a picture of a protester throwing flowers.
One local entrepreneur had set up shop across from the wall and was selling t-shirts of the famous graffiti as well as photos that documented the evolution of the constantly changing artwork.
Our next stop was the Kando Antiques shop owned by the family who purchased the Dead Sea scrolls from the shepherd who found them. Until this point, our group had been somewhat conservative consumers but this store seemed to entice most of the group.
The trips biggest surprise came at lunch when we ran into fellow Richmond student Stuart Seelman at the Ruth restaurant in Bethlehem (Stuart was on a similar trip with his presbytery).
After falafel, we walked over to the Shepherd’s field, which is the traditional site associated with the angel announcing Jesus’ birth to the shepherds as well as the fields of Boaz where Ruth would have worked. I expected sweeping hills and a large valley but the whole site seemed dwarfed by the Palestinian apartments, and Israeli settlements stretching down from the opposing hill.
Palestinian apartments, and Israeli settlements.
The contrasts of the Holy Land continued when we reached our modern hotel, which had been converted from an old monastery. Later, we walked the streets of the old city, which paired Herodian and Davidic ruins with lines of shops selling iron-on t-shirts of American sports teams featuring Hebrew lettering and made-in-China souvenirs.
To unwind after all the sights and contrasts, students Heather Brannon, Nathan Paul-Bonham, George Williams, and myself found a local restaurant were George charmed the owner and we closed the day with lots of laughs over wine.
Douglas Hippe is a Master of Divinity student at Union.
As we begin the third and final week of our adventure we are continually amazed at this experience. Today was spent in Galilee visiting more sites and trying to hold in tension the “archeological remains, church traditions, and the embellishments of tour guides” as Max Miller puts it, along with theological reflection and current political realities. It is sensory overload for most of us as we share this trip in the community we have formed with one another. At the same time, this is immensely personal for each of us. We still chatter non stop through parts of the day and evenings at leisure but we are also quieter for periods of time as we experience this holy land on its own terms. The closer we get to Jerusalem the more the crowds increase. The temperature has also risen to around 100 degrees, topping 104 yesterday, so we are careful to stay hydrated and take breaks when we need them. We were thankful for overcast skies today! Here are just a few highlights:
We started our day celebrating the birthday of our bus driver, Kareem, who moves us from place to place safely no matter how tight a spot he encounters! Then it was on to our first stop at Mt. Carmel overlooking the Jezreel Valley (top photo) where student Nathan Paul-Bonham did a wonderful presentation on the Druze, an Abrahamic religion with elements of the Islamic, Judaic, and Christian traditions.
The ancient city of Megiddo.
It was a short ride to Megiddo, an incredible place where excavations show us much of what ancient civilizations were like. Professor Sam Adams did a masterful job helping us to appreciate how archeology informs present-day understandings of cultural, political, and religious life. And he reminded us that archeology is not an exact science, especially when multiple communities are built on top of each other through the centuries when one dies out and another emerges, as is the case of Megiddo. A highlight for many of us was walking through the underground water system, a marvel of ingenuity and construction. The interpretation of what occurred here directly informs the current political situation and Megiddo holds special significance for some contemporary Christians who believe in an interpretation of Revelation that says the end of time will occur there: Armageddon.
Stairs taking us to the underground water system at Megiddo.
We had a hearty lunch in Nazareth, a bustling city rather than the small village it would have been when Jesus lived there with his family. At the Church of the Annunciation, we found a beautiful church built over a first-century house like one where tradition says Jesus’ mother lived. The church has magnificent mosaic renderings of scenes of Mary and her son from countries around the world. Just across the way were other ruins where tradition also says Joseph’s carpenter shop could have been.
Altar at the Church of the Annunciation built into Mary’s house.
Today was filled with examples of the confluence of archeology, biblical narrative, and traditions that believers adhere to, much of which cannot be reconciled. What we know for sure is that Jesus lived here and it was from here that his followers began their journeys that spread his message of peace across the globe. Perhaps what is most important about these sites is that they are sacred to believers from around the world who do not interpret things the same way, yet all stand upon the same holy ground when they are here.
Debbie Kirk is an alumna of Union and Associate Pastor for Spiritual Growth and Nurture at Hudson Memorial Presbyterian Church in Raleigh, NC.
Our day started with a boat ride on a calm Sea of Galilee with a light breeze (top photo). It was a warm sunny morning, but a hazy sky covered the mountains. Being in the region of Jesus’ ministry, we had the boat stop for us to worship together with a meditation on the story of Jesus feeding 4,000 people (Mark 8:1-10; 14-21) followed by communion. We also learned that archaeologists discovered a fishing boat in the Sea of Galilee during a drought that is from the first century CE.
Upon reaching shore, we went by bus to the Mount of the Beatitudes on the Galilee mountains overlooking the Sea of Galilee. We listened to the reading of Matthew 5:3-10 at the traditional site believed to be the place where Jesus taught the Beatitudes to the people.
We continued our journey to Tabgha to see the first century mosaic of bread and fish to remember the story of Jesus feeding 4,000 people. It is located in the Church of Heptapegon (The Seven Springs), erected in the 4th century, and believed to be the site of this miracle that followed Jesus teaching the people and healing the sick.
In Tabgha, we also visited the Church of the Primacy of Peter erected on the site believed to be where the resurrected Christ appeared to Peter and six other disciples. We listened to the stories read from the 21st chapter of the Gospel of John which resurrected hope to the disciples. Afterward, many of us walked down to the shoreline to meditate as some desired to feel the water of the Sea of Galilee on their feet where Jesus may have done as well.
In front of the altar in the church, there is a large block of stone around which the church was built. It is believed to be the place where Jesus, in John 21, had started a fire and invited his disciples to bring some of their catch to be grilled.
After lunch, our final visit took us to Capernaum where Jesus also carried out his ministry. It was a bustling city of three-to-five thousand people, a hub of commerce for caravans of traders. It was a crossroads for Jews and Gentiles. Jesus taught in the synagogue that now lies in ruins destroyed by an earthquake in the 2nd century CE. We also saw the excavation of Peter’s mother-in-law’s house that Jesus visited following an exhausting day of healing many people (Matthew 8:14-17). Upon arrival, Jesus learned that Peter’s mother-in-law was in bed with a fever. Jesus touched her and she was cured.
Despite temperatures that reached 104 degrees, the day proved to be spiritually meaningful for all of us who visited significant events in Jesus’ ministry.
It’s a peculiar and wonderful aspect of traveling — when one of the days you anticipate being uneventful or humdrum unfolds into one of the favorites of the trip. Today was one such day for me. On the schedule, it looked like a day dominated by the bus seat — picking up camp in Jericho and driving north along the Jordan River to set up camp in Tiberias in the region of Galilee.
The first group activity of the day was exploring the ancient city ruins of Beit She’an National Park (top photo), an area containing foundations of buildings dating from the Canaanite period to the Byzantine. While it is not to the sheer scale of a site like Jerash in Jordan, the park exhibits a breathtaking and remarkably well-preserved major city of the Roman Decapolis.
Migdal Synagogue
From Beit She’an, we drove 40-minutes north to Tiberias where we ate lunch, with many of our group eating fish from the Sea of Galilee. Then, almost on a whim, we visited the first-century Galilean town of Magdala, the likely home of Mary Magdalene from the Gospel narratives. At the site, we explored the Migdal Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in the Galilee and one of the six known and excavated synagogues dating back to the first century CE. While there is no explicit mention of Magdala in the New Testament Gospel or Epistolary literature, there is frequent mention of Jesus visiting synagogues around the region of Galilee, and it is likely that the Jesus of history walked upon the stones we have walked, and sat, prayed, taught, read, and learned in the synagogue we have just seen.
A few feet from the archeological excavation (which has only been active since 2006!) there is a Roman Catholic Duc in Altum which commemorates the public life of Jesus and celebrates the role of women in Jesus ministry. The entire chapel is held up by eight pillars, seven of which are inscribed with the names of women mentioned in the four Gospels, the eighth, we were told, has been left blank to honor the women who continue the work of the gospel today.
Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee
After checking into the Royal Hotel in Tiberias, Douglas (Hippe) and I took advantage of the bikes the hotel lent out. We peddled to the downtown along the coast of the Sea of Galilee, enjoying the new means of autonomous locomotion. The town was a sort of resort town, and we walked along the boardwalk and around the shops of downtown, getting a bearing on the town which will serve as our home for four days.
Nathan Paul-Bonham is a Master of Divinity student at Union.
We began our morning in Jericho, a modern-sized Palestinian city in the West Bank, with a short bus trip to Qumran. Here, the first Dead Sea Scrolls were found in 1947. Union student Linda Kurtz gave a wonderful presentation of the history of this very important community (top photo). We had a stunning view of cave #4 in which a Bedouin shepherd found the first of several hundred scrolls. Dr. Sam Adams gave us an overview of the three types of documents that were found and summarized the ideologies of the sects that most likely inhabited Qumran.
After touring the site with our very gifted guide Bedar, we loaded the bus for our trip to the Dead Sea.
The Dead Sea, which borders Israel, the West Bank, and Jordan, is a salt lake whose banks are over 1,300 feet below sea level. To our group, it was a place to have a blast by floating in the saltiest water there is and by rubbing therapeutic black mud on each other. The mineral-rich black mud is said to be great for the skin. Most of us bought samples in the gift shop so be sure to check out our wonderful complexions when we return. There is no way to swim in the Dead Sea as the salinity will only allow one to float. It is an incredible feeling to experience weightlessness in the water.
After a wonderful family style lunch in Jericho, we hiked a short distance to Tell es-Sultan which houses the stratified remains of Ancient Jericho, the oldest urban settlement known to humankind. From this site, we had a crystal clear view of the Mt. of Temptation. This mountaintop in the Judean Desert is said to be where the devil tried to tempt Jesus (Matthew 4:8).
Before heading back to our Oasis Hotel for the evening, we drove by an enormous sycamore tree in the center of downtown. Could this have been the one that Zacchaeus used to get a “better look” (Luke 19:1-10)?
We made a brief stop at a glass factory to purchase some fine craft and the best dates on the planet, then went back to the hotel for the night.
After dinner, our sweet Becky Jones offered a beautiful send off to Carson Brisson and four of our pilgrims who must abbreviate their trip due to churchly duties back in the states.
Union student Kelley Connelly led us in a lovely song to help them in their travels.
We will miss you Anna, Claire, Blake, Matt, and Carson. Godspeed and traveling mercies to you all.
George Williams is a Master of Divinity student at Union.
We started our day saying goodbye to Jordan. We loved our time in this beautiful country and will carry many memories with us. We had an uneventful border crossing into Israel and now have another stamp in our passports. We crossed at Eliat and stopped at a nearby kibbutz to enjoy the “world’s best ice cream” which was in fact quite delicious.
Our journey continued from the northernmost tip of the Red Sea along the coast of the southern half of the Dead Sea. Along the way, we saw groves of date palms. A safari park with ostrich and the mining operations that extract minerals and salt from the sea.
At last, we reached our destination, Masada. A recent flood wiped out parts of the Snake Trail that winds to the top so the intrepid climbers in our group had to join the rest and take the cable car to the top. What a moving experience to walk through this archeological site! Our guide led us through the remains of the storehouses and King Herod’s palaces. We viewed the ramp built by slaves for the Roman legion of 15,000 soldiers to breach the wall of the fortress where 1,000 men, women and children lived atop this desolate rock far above the Dead Sea. Rather than live under Roman oppression, the Jewish Zealots decided to take their own lives. We knew we were walking on sacred ground. “Never again ” would they live under the Roman oppressors, “Never Again would they bow before anyone but God.”
We ended our day together at dinner with tables designated for the “Richmond Shepherds.”
Sweet rest and blessings await us this night.
Ardy Skidmore is a Master of Divinity student at Union.
Greetings from Aqaba, Jordan! From city to desert to sea, we have traveled approximately 400 miles by bus throughout the diverse terrain of Jordan over the past week. No two days, nor hours, have been alike. Each day is an invitation to experience God’s creation in unexpected ways.
Today is our final day in Jordan, where we visited both desert and sea. The first part of the day began at Wadi Rum desert camp. Wadi Rum is mostly known for the setting of the 1962 film, Lawrence of Arabia. But to us, it encompasses the wilderness that the ancient Israelites trekked through on their way to the Promised Land. This was an opportune time for us to imagine and wonder how the Exodus unfolded in such challenging conditions. How did they travel without access to water? Where did they sleep at night in unfamiliar territory? In what ways did they experience God in this thin place? These are just some of the questions that cycled through our minds during our brief visit.
After arriving at Wadi Rum last evening, we settled in for a good night’s rest. Perhaps the most surprising part of the twilight hours was the sound of a canine symphony into the wee hours of the morning. A pack of lively dogs lived amidst the towering bluffs and as we soon discovered, their most active hours of barking were precisely those in which we planned to sleep. One single dog bark would echo throughout the land to form a continuous polyphonic chorus with only a few moments of silence. Nonetheless, most of us persevered and let our exhaustion lull us to sleep.
Group members hanging out in the pickup truck getting ready to explore the desert.
Shortly after worship, we hopped on the back of four tiny pickup trucks and embarked on an off-road adventure through the desert hills. Stopping along the way, we spent time climbing the bluffs, basking in the sun, and learning about first century BCE carvings that can be easily ignored if you aren’t looking carefully enough.
(left to right) Richmond students Heather Brannon, Rebecca Heilman, and Linda Kurtz on a camel ride.
After exploring the wilderness, several members of our group enthusiastically volunteered to ride on a camel caravan near camp. It’s truly amazing how these creatures manage to travel in hot conditions with human beings and all their belongings strapped on their backs. Luckily for the camels, this ride was short lived because more than a few of us have luggage just below the 50 lb. cutoff!
City of Aqaba on the drive in from the highway.
Once we stuffed our bellies with a traditional Jordanian grilled lunch, we departed from our temporary home back onto the highway en route to the southernmost tip of Jordan. For our last adventure in this hospitable country, we are spending these final hours in the beautiful port city of Aqaba. Situated along the Red Sea, Aqaba is the only coastal city in Jordan and is in very close proximity to Israel, Egypt, and Saudi Arabia. We are grateful to have a moment to rest and reflect on all that has happened this past week on the picturesque banks of the sea. And for those who prefer not to sleep among the wild desert dogs, the hotel in this resort town never looked better!
View of the Red Sea and city from our hotel room.
For many of us, this time in Jordan has been a welcomed opportunity to discover another culture and hear different perspectives about tensions in the region. For others, being able to see the places where our most cherished biblical stories occurred transforms our perceptions of what happened. This wondrous time has bonded us together as Christians, who are eager to experience God in a new place, and better understand the sacrifices those humble believers undertook for our faith thousands of years ago. We will truly miss our time in Jordan and the ways in which our hosts have invited us into their world. This visit has taken us to unexpected places and new experiences we will never forget. With each mile we travel, we know God is leading us as we gradually continue our quest to Jerusalem. Thanks be to God for my adventurous travel companions and all those who continue to pray for us on our journey.
Heather Woodworth Brannon is a Master of Divinity student at Union.
Hello from Wadi Rum! What a whirlwind these last 48 hours have been. For those of you who haven’t heard, we had quite the adventure yesterday. If you haven’t read Dr. Adams’ post, I encourage you to do so. In short, the day was SO. WORTH. IT. Our tour guide Niam even said “Not everyone who goes to Petra gets “petrified” like that!” After an exciting Friday, we looked forward to an easier and laid back Saturday. This morning after breakfast we headed to what is known as “Little Petra.” However, we quickly learned that there is nothing little about Little Petra. It’s more of an extension of the amazing views we saw yesterday. There, we were surprised to find more hiking and exploring opportunities, and even more surprised that we were willing to give them a try after yesterday! All the hard work was definitely worth the Koinonia (community) factor and the breathtaking views (The pictures do NOT do them justice!).
Hiking to Litte Petra
Little Petra
After a delicious lunch and a scenic drive, we arrived at Sand Rose Camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan. We drove through the desert, our amazing bus driver powered through the sand and we arrived right in front of our home for the evening. This experience was described to us as “glamping” (glamorous camping). I would say the jury is still out, but either way I know we are in for a wonderful experience filled with Koinonia, breaking bread and laughter.
glamping?
Tonight we experienced a traditional Jordanian dinner outside and saw how our food was prepared in the sand! (Yes you’re reading this correctly.). As soon as dinner wrapped up, a major disco dance party started in the middle of our campsite! (Shoutout to Anna and Blake for being the ONLY brave ones to join me on the dance floor). The night is still young here in Jordan, and we plan to enjoy the full moon, the clear skies and some stargazing. As for tomorrow, we look forward to camels, Jeeps and desert adventures. For now, we rest, we eat and we love.
We have experienced the greatest hospitality in Jordan. I think I speak for everyone when I say it will be quite difficult to leave in a couple of days. Many thanks to all our supporters back home, but even more thanks to our fearless leaders Carson and Sam. We’ve gone through some interesting “faith testing” experiences this week, and they have been our rocks the entire way. For those of you who are thinking about a Jordan visit, buy your tickets now. Come and see the Koinonia.
Kelley Connelly is a Master of Divinity student at Union.
Day 5 of our seminary was eventful, to say the least. After enjoying a hearty breakfast at our hotel, we walked a few steps to the entrance of Petra (meaning “rock”), one of the true wonders of the world. After hearing an insightful presentation from Richmond student Rebecca Heilman, we traversed through the sandstone formations of the Siq. We marveled at the aqueduct system and many tombs. Then we rounded a corner and were met by the majestic beauty of the Treasury (al-Khazneh in Arabic). This is one of the largest structures in the complex and lives up to the hype. The colors and history make for an overpowering experience and sensory overload. Several members of our group took camel rides.
We then continued on through the Petra complex, looking at tombs, steps, inscriptions, and the other incredible aspects of this Nabatean masterpiece. The group enjoyed an excellent buffet on a patio overlooking Petra, and we were joined by several restaurant dogs and cats.
Some members of the group then chose to explore the beauty of Petra on the lower levels, while others decided to hike up the 800 steps to the Monastery. Some went on foot, while others took donkeys to the top. This structure was used as a grand meeting room for Nabatean religious groups in the second-century CE and was then converted to a Christian monastery.
Pastor Shadi (fourth from right) and his two oldest kids
On the way down, we encountered Pastor Shadi and his two oldest kids on the path. Pastor Shadi was our speaker on our first night in Amman, and we all thought it was providential to run into him. We talked about ways we could be in partnership/dialogue, as he addresses such issues as poverty in Jordan and the Syrian refugee crisis.
Then the rains came! The heavens opened, and a fierce thunderstorm ensued. I will spare all the nitty-gritty details that involved a lot of “Keystone Cops” moments, and some of us hiking BACK UP TO THE MONASTERY to look for everyone. The most important thing to happen was our looking out for one another. A special shout-out to one of our intrepid group members, Becky Jones, who was a huge supporter for other folks hiking down the hill (Becky also made special friends with her donkey Jack on the way up). We all marvel at Becky’s courage and kindness on the trip.
After the rain.
The storm was so bad that the Petra police shuttled out those of us who were left in trucks, because the Siq was flooded and gushing with water. I rode out on Pastor Shadi’s lap. Both the Indiana Jones movies and Jurassic Park were invoked as parallels to the thunderstorm.
A disaster of a day? Quite the opposite. We experienced the incomparable beauty of Petra and came together as a group. It is most often through trying experiences that koinonia (“community”) happens. But I am sure glad we are all down off that mountain!
Dr. Samuel Adams is a professor of Old Testament at Union.
In those days Jesus came from Nazareth of Galilee and was baptized by John in the Jordan. And just as he was coming up out of the water, he saw the heavens torn apart and the Spirit descending like a dove on him. And a voice came from heaven, “You are my Son, the Beloved; with you I am well pleased.”
And on day four, the group heads from the capital city of Amman to Bethany beyond the Jordan to the place thought to be Jesus’ baptism. Niem, our tour guide, informed us we went from about 2,500 feet above sea level to about 800 feet below sea level within an hour. Upon arrival, we walked on a clean dirt path less than a mile to the Jordan River and John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church. From there, we turned right to go down some steps to the river.
Sue, an alum and pastor, graciously provided a short devotion as a reminder of our baptism, as well as what the Jordan has meant to many Christians throughout history. When I descended the steps, I was both surprised by the light brown muddiness of the water and overwhelmed by the significance of the meaning of that exact spot. One thing I have learned on our trip thus far is even if I’m skeptical of the “realness” of this holy spot, there are thousands, maybe millions of people and Christians who find this land, this muddy water to be sacred. So I stood in the light brown water and prayed a liturgical prayer, I extensively studied for my exegesis ordination exam, which was often used by first century Christians, “As many of you as were baptized into Christ have clothed yourselves with Christ. There is no longer Jew or Greek, there is no longer slave or free, there is no longer male and female; for all of you are one in Christ Jesus” (Galatians 3:27-28).
The irony, when you look up from your mud-covered feet you see a strict border dividing Israel and Jordan. I believe Paul and Jesus desired for divisions to be broken down and that breaking down such divisions is found in the sacrament of baptism. Yet in the holy waters of Jordan, where Christ and many more have been baptized, there is a border, strictly present with years upon years of political and religious tensions and divisions. However, on a more positive note, as we were leaving, we saw a line of about 20 or so (possibly) Greek Orthodox priests and congregants line up to either be baptized or to remember their own baptism. It was hard to not leave that holy space without tears or our own reminder of how we should live out baptized life.
After Bethany, we made the long ascent through the plains of Moab, past Mount Nebo, and on to the town of Madaba (biblical reference: Numbers 21:30) where Niem informs us Madaba could be the home of Ruth and her parents. To know that the strong, independent woman of Ruth and her people walked in this arid hilly land of Moab and then for us to walk on those same grounds is absolutely incredible and an honor in itself (Ruth is one of my favorite women in the Bible if you can’t tell…biblical reference: Ruth 1:1-5)!
In Madaba, we saw a mosaic map at the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George. It is a 6th century map of the holy land including sights such as Jerusalem, The Dead Sea, Jericho, Mount Sinai, and more (view map). More than likely, it is the earliest map in existence. The Orthodox Church was constructed around the map in 1896 in order to save the map from destruction. Truly incredible!
And our last adventure of the day was to the infamous Mount Nebo. Those Biblical references include Deuteronomy 32:49; 34:1, where Moses sees the Promised Land, but is then told by God that he won’t make it …bummer because it’s beautiful! Unfortunately, the clouds were rolling in, which limited our view some, but we got to see enough! The photos include a panoramic view of the “Promised Land” as well as the top photo of some of the Richmond people!
All in all, April 26th included surprising spiritual moments, inspiring landscape, and overwhelming holy grounds that not only recall biblical stories but brings you into the Bible like never before. Thanks be to God for this Holy Land!
Rebecca Heilman is a Master of Divinity student at Union.
Jordan is usually a land of hot and dry temperatures, especially this time of year. Yet our group’s first full day here was cool and rainy. Who knew? Weather notwithstanding, with our fine guide, Naim, and Professors Carson Brisson and Samuel Adams, we had a great day in Amman (pronounced “A-Man”). We saw this city of three million with its hills like Rome and its many limestone buildings. We saw the Citadel and then on to Jerash, north of Amman, including Hadrian’s Gate, the Temple of Zeus, the Agora, and the Temple of Artemis.
We also braved a phalanx of merchants in Jerash, hawking their many wares. Many Jordanians were out, including dozens of schoolgirls smiling and greeting us with “Hi” or “Hello” and wanting selfies. Also, blessedly, there were sellers of umbrellas and pretty pink raincoats, one of which I happily donned.
The evening was a true climax, where we hosted Pastor Shadi Bqain of the Church of the Nazarene and members of his congregation. Pastor Bqain is a Jordanian Christian, 16 years a minister with a church, who also works with prison ministries. Pastor Bqain pointed out sites near Amman in the Bible (e.g., site of Jesus’ baptism on the east bank of the Jordan River). He said that between two and perhaps five percent of Jordanians are Christian. They are free to worship and are active in their communities, including serving in the Jordanian Parliament. It is illegal for Muslims to enter Christian churches, but evangelism is conducted informally. He dialogues with Muslims.
Pastor Bqain discussed the Syrian refugee situation in Jordan and pointed out that the Jordanian population has more than doubled since the Syrian crisis began. He stated that Jordanians are welcoming but the sheer numbers of refugees have strained the country. Sixty-percent of Jordanians are Palestinians. Pastor Bqain led a closing prayer in Arabic and was warmly greeted by our group afterward. His presentation was very meaningful.
This day revealed some of Jordan’s treasures but, as importantly, the pleasant, courteous and upbeat spirit of our group.
Top photo: The 2018 Middle East Travel Seminary with Pastor Shadi Bqain (seated second from left).
We had an uneventful flight from Dulles to Vienna — much appreciated, I think, by our contingent who drove up from Richmond and were waylaid by a flat tire less than an hour in. Upon our arrival in Vienna, we wound our way through seemingly endless corridors to find our next gate. 5/5 seminarians surveyed did not sleep well or at all on the flight over, giving us plenty of bleary eyes and blank stares to go around during our 2-ish hour layover. (It should be noted that one Professor Adams slept the entire flight.)
Eventually, it was time to board, so we piled onto a couple of buses that sped around the airport to our plane on the tarmac. I’m not sure if it was the lack of sleep that made this feel so absurd, but a few minutes after we arrived at the plane, the bus doors opened and passengers spilled out onto the tarmac. Immediately the stairs at the front door of the plane were full of people (see above photo). Then, unbelievably, the rear door opened and we were encouraged to board the plane using that entrance too. If you’ve ever been on a plane, you can imagine the chaos that ensued as people tried to squeeze past one another when their seat was inevitably closer to the door they didn’t use. I would be perfectly happy to never board a plane this way ever again.
Before I got on that plane, the Jordan and Israel/Palestine parts of our travels seemed very separate to me. I had compartmentalized them in my mind. But then I learned how misguided that was. When everyone had found their place on the plane, Joshua and I wound up chatting with the woman seated between us. I had seen her Jordanian passport, so was surprised when she was primarily interested in hearing about the Palestinian parts of our itinerary. And that’s when I learned that she is Palestinian, and Palestinians can only obtain Jordanian documentation. I was also reminded that you, as an American, simply cannot commiserate with a Palestinian about how long it takes to get from the east coast of the United States to the Middle East. This woman was visiting friends in New York city and flew from there to Vienna like we did. But because it is nearly impossible for her to get through security etc in the Tel Aviv airport, she flies to Amman and then gets on a bus to cross the border into Israel, a two-hour drive. She told us this process can take hours depending on the day, number of people present, and other impossible-to-predict factors. So while our journey was nearing its end for the day, hers is nowhere near over yet.
When we landed, we shuffled through the Amman airport where we were greeted by a gentleman whose express purpose, it seems, was to escort us through the airport safely to the outdoors.
Passport stamps in Jordan.
After handing him our passports and collecting our luggage, we waited a bit until our passports were returned with new stamps admitting us into the country. We then boarded our bus and headed towards city center to our hotel. Tonight we have nothing planned besides dinner, which gave us all a chance to rinse away the airplane from our bodies and put good (not airplane) food in our bellies.
So far, Amman looks like sprawling limestone with some palm trees sprinkled in. Our Jordanian travel planner (not our guide – we meet him tomorrow) told us that Amman has grown quite a lot in recent years. As he put it, it’s no longer the city of seven hills but of 15 hills! Most of the buildings are made with local limestone. Some have Mediterranean roofs and others are more flat. Mostly, right now it just feels like a city that we’ve been plunked in the middle of. Context and more learning await us tomorrow! But now… a good night’s sleep to kick this jet lag to the curb!
Linda Kurtz is a Master of Divinity / Master of Arts in Christian Education student at Union and Communications Specialist for NEXT Church.
The irony, when you look up from your mud-covered feet you see a strict border dividing Israel and Jordan. I believe Paul and Jesus desired for divisions to be broken down and that breaking down such divisions is found in the sacrament of baptism. Yet in the holy waters of Jordan, where Christ and many more have been baptized, there is a border, strictly present with years upon years of political and religious tensions and divisions. However, on a more positive note, as we were leaving, we saw a line of about 20 or so (possibly) Greek Orthodox priests and congregants line up to either be baptized or to remember their own baptism. It was hard to not leave that holy space without tears or our own reminder of how we should live out baptized life.
